How to conduct effective pre-mountaine training

In the mountaineering process, climbers need to withstand pressures such as dehydration, malnutrition, cold, lack of oxygen, lack of sleep, and muscle fatigue. It is necessary to carry out physical and mental training in response to these pressures. On the other hand, mountaineers need clear-headed minds to deal with the complex environment and changing conditions in mountain areas. On the other hand, mountaineering requires both long-term endurance output and short-term explosiveness and progress, so climbers need to be in With many aspects of athleticism, it is necessary to arrange strength and endurance training before climbing so as to guarantee the peak of physical fitness when climbing.

Training principle

Through considerable training, it can stimulate the human body. The body's secretion of hormones and its own physiological adjustments ultimately increase the ability to exercise. This is the principle of training. In general, the increase in athletic ability does not occur during the training process, but during the later recovery period. Therefore, the recovery after training is just as important as the training itself. If you do not fully recover after training, you will not only fail to improve your level of performance but will also be counterproductive. The strength of the training must be appropriate. If the strength is too low, it will not stimulate the body to adapt. If the strength is too high, it will damage the body. Restoration requires not only rest and nutrition, but also long enough, but not too long, otherwise the body will return to its pre-training state.

Training schedule

The short-term burst of strength and long-term endurance output have the opposite effect on the nature of muscles. It is impossible for the same muscle to have both good endurance and explosive power. Human skeletal muscle is composed of two different muscle fibers, of which red muscle fibers determine endurance and white muscle fibers determine explosive power. The ratio of the two is mainly genetically determined. Training programs can target either red muscle fibers or white muscle fibers, but not both, otherwise neither endurance nor explosiveness can achieve good training results. Therefore, strength training can be used as the focus of the first phase, building a sufficient strength base (higher than the required strength for climbing), and then carrying out the second phase of endurance training. At this time, the strength will be reduced, exactly as well as the climbing facilities. The required strength is in line with.

Current theory of exercise physiology believes that athletes should not maintain the same intensity of training for a long time, but should gradually and reasonably arrange training programs so that they can reach the peak of physical fitness when participating in key competitions. Whether this kind of training concept is effective for climbers has not yet been tested. However, the experience of many climbers has shown that increasing the training intensity in the first 3 to 4 weeks before climbing and then recovering from the last week of climbing can allow physical fitness to reach its peak during climbing. While improving the training intensity, we must pay attention to nutritional supplements, intake more than 250g of carbohydrates per day to ensure the supply of glycogen. Rest and recovery should also pay attention to the rhythm and nutrition during the rest period to ensure that no lactic acid remains in the body at the beginning of the climb. If you can't accurately grasp the body's recovery rhythm, you can prolong the recovery period and try to avoid fighting fatigue.

Female climbers may be concerned that the strength and endurance qualities are affected by the menstrual cycle. There is no scientific basis for this. However, if you are too worried, you can also use drugs to control the menstrual cycle. The contraceptive pills taken a few weeks before the climb are stopped 10 days before the start of the climb, and menstruation will end just before the start of the climb. However, in the second half of the menstrual period, body temperature may increase, leading to increased cardiovascular load. The scientific conclusion in this respect is not much, because the body fat content of professional athletes is usually very low and is more prone to irregular menstruation than ordinary women, so the menstrual period response of different people is quite different.

Strength Training

The purpose of strength training is to increase the volume and strength of specific muscle groups. For the climbers, strength training is mainly aimed at strengthening the tolerance of muscles and ligaments and improving the coordination of exercise rather than increasing muscle volume, but the basic training principles still apply.

First, strength training methods

The basic method of strength training is repetitive compliance training. It refers to the contraction and relaxation of the target muscle under specific compliance. It is repeated several times as a group. Each training can be performed in multiple groups.

For the same load exercise, the higher the load, the fewer repetitions. The last exercise of each group should be just to reach the main exhaustion. The main driving force refers to the trainer who, after completing the active part of the movement (lifting the load), has just completed the passive part (controlling the fall of the load) autonomously, that is, without assistance, the next repetitive movement cannot be completed. The smaller the load, the more repetitions can be performed before exhaustion.

Mountaineering requires climbers to increase their weight-to-weight ratio. When training, they mainly focus on the promotion of strength and try to avoid the increase in muscle volume. Therefore, when carrying out strength training, the load level should be adjusted to 2 to 4 actions per group. The active phase of each action should be completed quickly, and the passive phase should be slowly put down. The interval between the group and the group is 2 to 3 minutes. After three items of each item are replaced, the item is replaced. The total number of individual items is 6 groups. No less than 2 times. When you can do 3 actions per group and repeat 6 groups, you can increase the load so that each group changes back to 2 times.

Second, strength training project

In view of the characteristics of mountaineering projects, climbers need special strength training for back-dorsal muscles, tension muscles, grip muscles, and leg muscles. The methods of strength training are various and relatively easy to implement include: sit-ups (or leg lifts), pull-ups (or use a pull-down machine), standing flexion exercises (using a barbell), kick exercises, and the like. Performing these items in succession in a single strength training will exceed the body's ability to recover. Therefore, the practice items should be divided into two groups, which will take place alternately on different days.

Each group of 2 to 4 times, before a total of 6 groups of strength exercises, must first warm-up exercises. You can exercise on an exercise bike for 5 to 10 minutes to increase the blood circulation level. Then perform warm-up exercises to develop shoulder and arm thrusts. Do not exceed 8 times for each exercise. Otherwise, fatigue may occur and formal training cannot begin. Before it is fully restored. Warm-up exercises should take 1 to 2 minutes between the group and the group.

Third, strength training precautions

In the course of strength training, if the training method, intensity, and rhythm are not arranged properly, it will have an impact on the training effect and even cause injuries.

1, to avoid sports injuries. When carrying out strength training, you must first consider how to avoid sports injuries. If the trainee does not have any previous exercise training experience, he must pay attention to gradual and orderly progress, control the intensity of the training, and avoid bending the limb into a vulnerable angle under load. If trainees already have a certain training base, they can analyze their weaknesses in strength and make up for it through targeted training. The tibial articular syndrome is a common type of sports injury for climbers. It is manifested as knee pain when going down the hill, and the leg is difficult to bend in severe cases. Whether it is to fix the knee joint with elastic bandages or knee pads, or to rest and apply ice, it can only relieve pain temporarily and it cannot solve the problem. The most effective treatment is to exercise around the knee muscles. For example, performing a static exercise such as squeaking a horse to maintain the stability of the sacrum by increasing muscle strength.

2, ligament stretching. Most athletes stretch their ligaments during warm-up and relaxation to avoid injuries and to achieve better relaxation. The basic principles of ligament stretching are the same as those of other sports training. If it is for the purpose of improving flexibility, it is necessary to stretch to the limit and then fully recover. The problem is that the ligaments are much weaker than the muscles, so stretching the ligaments can easily lead to sports injuries. If the purpose of stretching the ligaments is to improve flexibility, it is best to perform under the guidance of professional instructors to avoid making erroneous actions.

3, recovery. To ensure the effectiveness of training, not only scientific training is needed, but good recovery is also crucial. Whether it is between group and group, or between two trainings, effective recovery requires special attention in strength training and endurance training.

1) Restorative showers: Restorative showers that were invented by the French and used by almost every elite athlete in the world today are one of the best means of recovery. This method requires that the shower be started immediately after the training and the hot water with the highest temperature that the human body can endure should be showered for 5 minutes to allow the blood vessels to fully expand. Then slowly lower the water temperature until the body can endure the lowest temperature. Let the water flow concentrate on the head and the muscles that have just been exercised, and feel the gradual contraction of blood vessels. Keep it for 2 to 4 minutes until the body cools down. As the body gradually adapts, the cooling time can slowly increase, and the water temperature needs to gradually decrease. Then the hot water is transferred back to stimulate the blood vessels to re-expand, so that the blood stream takes away the lactic acid in the muscles. This process is repeated at least twice, ending with cold water shower to promote the elimination of fatigue.

2) Restorative Walking or Cycling: For hours after training, eating, and resting, take a walk or ride for 30 minutes to maintain the heart rate at 60-70% of the anaerobic valve. This can promote the metabolism of intramuscular waste and increase the body's demand for glucose. In addition, a small amount of food should be eaten after the event.

3) Eating: As long as there is a proper method, eating immediately after training can also speed up recovery. Ingestion of 225 g of carbohydrate within 20 minutes after training can activate the resynthesis of glycogen. Then within one hour of formal meal, the main content of carbohydrates, and add the right amount of protein, the recovery process is most beneficial.

4) Sleep: Many athletes will take a nap after training. This will not only repair damaged muscle tissue but also burn body fat. In addition, adequate sleep and deep tissue massage can accelerate recovery. Every 10-15 days, you can look for a well-trained masseur who knows how to reshape your muscles and lose mass.

Endurance training

First, the principle of endurance training

For climbers, endurance training is particularly important. There are three main goals for endurance training:

1, increase the maximum oxygen uptake, enhance the body's ability to supply oxygen to the muscles.

2, increase the anaerobic valve, enhance muscle aerobic metabolism, reduce the production of lactic acid.

3, to improve the body's mechanical efficiency, need to be strengthened through different training methods.

Second, the concept

When carrying out endurance training, it must have enough targeted and appropriate forms, and the strength should be enough to stimulate the body, but not too much. Therefore, the key to the problem lies in the measurement of exercise intensity. If you can't measure your exercise intensity during training, it is naturally impossible to do scientific training.

Resting heart rate

After a full rest, the heart rate is the resting heart rate, such as the morning pulse measured in the morning. The average resting heart rate was about 72 beats/min for the average male without any sports training, and about 10 beats/min for males in the same age group. For well-trained athletes, the resting heart rate is usually 40-50 beats/min. The morning pulse should be measured after a good night's sleep, and maintain a flat posture when measuring, otherwise it will affect the measurement results.

Maximum heart rate

In exercise training, as the exercise load increases, the oxygen consumption and heart rate increase. At the maximum load intensity, the oxygen consumption and heart rate no longer increase continuously, and the heart rate reaches the highest level, which is the maximum heart rate. The most common heart rate calculation formula in the past: maximum heart rate (secondary/minute) = 220-age. However, the formula error is very large and it is rarely used at present. More accurate calculation formula: maximum heart rate (male) = 217 - age × 0.85, maximum heart rate (female) = 209 - age × 0.7, climbers can perform a 4-minute ultimate intensity sprint on a treadmill or on the runway, at this time The heart rate is basically equal to the maximum heart rate.

Load strength

The load intensity is roughly divided into four ranges. When the heart rate is 50% of the maximum heart rate, you do not feel tired. This kind of training can only promote the recovery of the body, without any improvement. Heart rate at 65% of the maximum heart rate, will feel a little tired, but basically no improvement effect, such training is only suitable for warm-up, relaxation and weight loss. When the heart rate is 75-85% of the maximum heart rate, there will be a sense of fatigue, but basically no lactic acid will be produced in the muscle. A trained endurance athlete can persist for several hours under such intensity. Heart rate at the maximum heart rate of 85-100%, the load intensity exceeds the oxygen-free valve, the muscle will produce and accumulate lactic acid, athletes can only adhere to such a strength for a short time.

Maximal oxygen uptake

Maximum oxygen uptake refers to the oxygen uptake rate of the body when the load intensity reaches the limit. Determining the maximum oxygen uptake is a function of the circulatory system, rather than the function of specific muscles. It is mainly genetically determined, but you can improve it through regular long-term endurance training, or you can get temporary boost by taking some nutritional supplements. In mountaineering, the maximum oxygen uptake has a great influence on the climber's climbing speed at high altitudes. Climbers with greater maximum oxygen uptake usually climb faster, so they are exposed to objective hazards for shorter periods of time, making it easier to ensure safety and success.

Third, endurance training methods

The three goals for endurance training are: to increase the maximum oxygen uptake, increase the oxygen-free valve, and improve the body's mechanical efficiency. The available methods are: gap training, continuous training and long-term training.

Gap training

Gap training is the best way to increase VO2max. The so-called gap training refers to a short period of high-intensity training, followed by a rest period of rest and recovery. When the lactic acid in the body is completely decomposed, the next group of high-intensity exercises is performed, followed by the next group of rest and recovery. Several groups. The duration of each group of training is about several minutes to ten minutes. The intensity of maximal oxygen uptake corresponds to 85-100% of the heart rate (the maximum heart rate is about 10% higher than the maximum oxygen uptake rate). Interval training will not only consume a large amount of physical energy, but will also cause considerable pressure on muscles and connective tissue. Therefore, it takes several days for recovery and adjustment to fully recover. If you do not wait for the full recovery of the body to perform the next interval training, only Counterproductive, causing damage to the body.

Continuous training

The main role of continuous training is to improve aerobic capacity. The intensity of continuous training should be 65-75% of the maximum VO2max corresponding to heart rate, continuous training for 45-120 minutes. Training frequency is maintained at 3-4 times a week.

Long-term training

Training that lasts for many years can increase the body's mechanical efficiency during exercise, although the increase is not as pronounced as the increase in VO2max and the anaerobic valve. At present, there are no specific experiments related to mountaineering. However, experiments conducted on other athletes show that the more complex and more skillful the training program, the easier the mechanical efficiency of the body can be improved.

High altitude training

High altitude training and high altitude adaptation are not exactly the same. The purpose of adaptation is “high activity, low resting,” while high-altitude training is just the opposite, requiring “high resting and low training”. The reason why training in low places is to provide the body with sufficient oxygen supply and ensure the training intensity; the reason why it is necessary to return to a high place for rest is to obtain adaptability to high altitudes while the body gradually recovers.

Training method

The climber's endurance training should be based on the muscle groups that the climber needs to use. Such as cycling, you can use the device to simulate the actual situation in the game to accumulate experience. Although the athlete still needs some actual combat training, climbing is not the case. There is no device to simulate the real climbing situation, whether it is a step machine or a heavy load. Walking machines are far from actual climbing. Therefore, if you want to achieve the best training effect, you should choose a slope with a steep slope, and repeatedly carry out weight-bearing climbing training, and pay attention to protecting the knee when going downhill.