Rock climbers are keen to debate which rubber is the most adhesive. The problem is that no one has actually destroyed their climbing shoes to find the answer.
method
The fracture angles of the rubber samples were tested on granite and polyethylene rock plates, respectively. The difference between the best and worst rubber in both tests reached 6.5 degrees.
What tests have been done
Tested all the most popular climbing shoe rubbers. The most popular climbing shoe rubber is defined as a pair of climbing shoes that are sold in at least five online stores.
How to perform this test
At present, there are 9 most popular rock climbing shoe rubbers on the market. Each rubber purchases a pair. There was no sales staff involved in the entire testing process. Each shoe was cut off 2''X2'' rubber. Each sample has a weight. All samples were placed in the same place on the granite slab. The angle of the incline gradually increases until the detected product breaks. This angle is measured at this time.
The same process will be repeated on a flat slate. Each rubber was tested 20 times (10 granites, 10 polyethylene plates). In order to check the consistency of the test, the rubber on the left and right side of the shoe will be tested. Colleagues also completed the pull test (using a spring scale and a 15 pound weight) and got similar results.
Spadout preferences?
All samples were purchased from retail stores at full price (non-production). Spadout does not accept any funds from processors.
Spadout received funding from more than 300 dealers operating a variety of different climbing shoes (including all the climbing shoes we tested). Spadout's revenue comes from the total sales of all channels. It has nothing to do with the sale of a specific product, so it can be seen as no preference.
This test was designed and implemented by Steven Won. Steven Won is a physicist working at CERN and he is also a climbing enthusiast. Each sample is placed on a prominent part of the granite. Rotate the screw (see granite plate below) and slowly raise the angle of the granite plate until the rubber of the test sample breaks. The angle of this measuring board is quantified and marked on the measuring board.
Average test results
granite
Polyethylene
Evolv TRAX XT-5
34.27°
48.86°
La Sportiva FriXion RS
33.94°
45.61°
Mad Rock Formula #5
28.40°
43.80°
Mad Rock FX5
32.77°
46.21°
Stealth C4
30.00°
45.18°
Stealth HF
28.16°
46.68°
Stealth Onyx
30.12°
47.78°
Vibram XS
30.87°
48.79°
Vibram XSV
29.59°
49.48°
Rubber name and the name of the climbing shoe
Evolv Trax XT-5
Evolv Defy
La Sportiva FriXion RS
La Sportiva Mojo
Mad Rock Formula #5
Mad Rock (Old) Phoenix
Mad Rock FX5
Mad Rock (New) Phoenix
Stealth Onyx
Five Ten Galileo
Stealth HF
Five Ten V10
Stealth C4
Five Ten Mojave
Vibram XSV
Mammut Goblin
Vibram XS
La Sportiva Nago Woman XS Grip Sage
Detailed test report
- All the products to be tested are placed in the same position on the granite test board and the rock board. In order to avoid errors as much as possible, each rubber brand takes 20 samples (using a used rubber) for testing.
- Use the same size for each sample (2''X2'')
- When tested at angles less than 45°, a weight (15oz of steel) will be used to assist in the test, and the weight will not be applied to tests greater than 45°. Use a double-sided tape to attach the weight to the top of the rubber sample.
- The bottom part of the top of the granite test panel (unpolished) was also applied in the test.
- The plane area of ​​the EGrip's Peabody Crimp tray was used in the test.
- All experiments were conducted at a laboratory temperature of 68°F.
- The icon on the back of the device is not used as an angle measurement for this experiment (measured from the apex to the bottom of the fixed point of the bevel).
- In order to make the data more easily identifiable, a modified Bell curve conversion degree was used in the 0-10 format experiment.
In this experiment, the pressure comes from adjusting the angle of the experimental object. The point of this approach is that it effectively eliminates possible system errors, including differences in weight or rubber surfaces.
Steven Won is Huang Fellow of Northwestern University's School of Physics and Astronomy, and he is also a member of CERN's USCMS. He is also a rock climbing enthusiast.
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